Botswana trip Oct/Nov 2008

We love being out in nature. We recently purchased an off road trailer and did our first safari to Botswana and what an experience it turned out to be!!!! We got bogged down in mud, travelled through thick sandy trails and saw the most beautiful animals and birds.It truly felt like Eden to me…..

Botswana is bordered by Zambia and Zimbabwe to the northeast, Namibia to the north and west, and South Africa to the south and southeast. At Kazungula, four countries - Botswana, Zimbabwe, Zambia and Namibia - meet at a single point mid-stream in the Zambezi River.The Kalahari Desert stretches west of the eastern hardveld, covering 84% of the country. The Kalahari extends far beyond Botswana’s western borders, covering substantial parts of South Africa, Namibia and AngolaIn the north-west, the Okavango River flows in from the highlands of Angola and soaks into the sands, forming the 15,000 sq. km network of water channels, lagoons, swamps and islands. The Okavango is the largest inland delta system in the world a bit smaller than Isreal or half of Switzerland.

Botswana October/November 2008 trip report.

 

 Vehicle:    2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD & Infanta Offroad Trailer

 

24 Oct -Khama Rhino Sanctuary

 

Arrived via Gaborone with Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD and Infanta off road trailer. Frieda traveled from George and I met her in Gaborone, I flew from Luanda where I am working offshore on an oil platform. After pitching our trailer tent I found that we had an electrical problem caused by faulty wiring on our trailer. This was sorted out and we enjoyed a relaxed afternoon and the Bots sunset. The campsite was nice – even hot showers -  and we enjoyed our first bush night experience in Bots.  Campsites are very private and big. Packed up early to first go back to Serowe to fix our electrical problem and then leave for Khubu Island.  Serowe has a beautiful Spar where you can stock up. 

 

25 Oct – Khubu Island

 

We traveled from Khama via Lethlukele village and then just kept right on the sand road to Khubu Island.  It took us 6 hours to travel from Serowe to Khubu Island, but it is worth it! On arrival we were the only people there and could choose our site where ever we wanted. We chose campsite 1 at a huge Boabab tree. After putting up camp, we took a drive around the Island to see where we would like to take some nice pictures. The wind was blowing and our choice on site 1 was a good one as it was on the western side of the Island and the wind did not worry too much. Khubu Island is a must visit for photographers.

 

26 & 27 Oct – Maun

 

Left Khubu early for Maun, traveled the North Western route to Gweta. This road was very dusty with deep powder at some points, the wind was blowing in the same direction we traveled and our Jeep and trailer was pasted with this grey dust, quite something to see! Whatever track you choose, always keep North/North West, if you ask direction you will only get one direction from the locals, they point in the general direction and say ‘STRAIGHT’!!! Arrived in Maun around 15h00 and put up our camp at Audi Camp. We will stay here for two days to explore the town and get some fuel and food.  The ablution facilities here is excellent (compared to what was still waiting for us in Moremi and Chobe).  It is quite a busy camp (lot’s of overlanders and bigger groups), has a pool and lovely restaurant.

 

28 Oct – Moremi

 

Left Audi early for South Gate camp. On arrival at South Gate we picked our camp site and there were two other couples in the camp as well. After chatting to the personnel at the gate they informed us that we can stay in any camp in Moremi as the camps were not fully book, contrary to what we found when we did our reservations. We decided to go to Xakanaxa the next day. That night we had a Hyena visiting our camp while we were having our meal. I had to chase him away a few times. The ablutions facilities was shocking to say the least, the new ablutions and staff housing with the new gate and offices is completed and really nice, but the official hand over still needs to take place in the near future.

 

29 Oct – 1 November Xakanaxa

 

We found Xakanaxa camp fairly full but manage to find a nice spot. We found this to be a nice camp and really enjoyed the time there. One afternoon we had an elephant visiting the camp site and our neighbor, a Bots tour operator decided to help the elephant along it’s way by throwing a stone at it. Needless to say that it was chaos for the next few minutes with the elephant charging through their camp and people running in all directions. This was quite silly and not something one would expect from a local tour operator. We went to 3^rd Bridge the one day and found nobody except baboons in the camp. The baboons were making themselves quite comfortable on the new staff house verandahs.  We decided just there to stay on in Xakanaxa for the next 3 days.  Xakanaxa is, according to us, the best camp in Moremi.  It is quite central and you can do some day trips from there.  We also had some excellent game vieving here, especially with elephants.  We also saw lion here.  We saw a herd of 150 one day and were soon surrounded by them.  We can also recommend doing the sunset boat trip on the river.  The boat can take 12 people and if you make up a small group, it is very affordable.  We also had two night visits from  Hippo’s grazing on the grass in front of our canopy.  Of course the Hyena were there quite a few nights, one night keeping everybody awake for at least an hour while working his way through the entire rubbish bin on our doorstep.  Dead Tree Island is a must while here, beautiful for photography

 

2 - 4 Nov – North Gate

 

It took us 3 hours to travel from Xakanaxa to North Gate.  Lovely route and the landscape change quite a bit.  Keep left and travel as close as possible to the river.  Plan to have a picnic on the way, there are some lovely spots.  Road in a good condition.  Baboons are also a bit of a problem here.  One big male attacked two ladies on several occasions when they visit the ladies ablutions on their own.  Ablutions were also quite shocking.  Two small blocks with each one shower, toilet and basin.  Also dirty and not up to any standard!  Kwai Village, just north of the gate has a lovely shop on the right stocked with cold beer and cool drinks, water, food (tinned and fresh) and even diesel and petrol!  It is like a mini Pick & Pay!  Peggy, the shopkeeper, is a beautiful girls and very helpful.  Of course you pay a price for the convenience.  In North Gate we had the most fantastic lion viewing one afternoon.  One male, 3 female and 2 cubs right next to the road.  We sat there for about an hour.  It was almost as if they did not even notice us!  For the rest of the wildlife, we were a bit disappointed.  The Baboons were a  nuisance and we could not leave anything outside when leaving the camp.

 

5 & 6 Nov – Savuti

We left at 09:00.  The trailer wheel got stuck in the mud when leaving for Savuti just outside the gate. Fortunately a overlander noticed us and came to our rescue.     At Mababe gate we were advised to take the road to the left and not go straight, due to very thick sand.  You would normally take this road when travelling to Linyati, but after 7km you will find the road linking up with the road to Savuti.  A bit of a detour, but a wise move.  We heard of several people who got stuck in the sand within the first 10km after Mababe gate. We only got to Savuti at 16:00.  We could not go to our designated stand, as the sand getting there was very think and a bit risky with the Jeep and trailer.  We found an alternative site right next to the ablutions.  The ablution facilities were quite nice.  Warm water and Sun Energy lights at night.  Cleaners also came in every day.  Apart from elephands, we dit not find the game viewing very exciting. 

7 - 9 Nov – Ihaha

 

The road from Savuti to Ihaha is quite sandy, but the Jeep did not disappoint us.  It took us about 5 hours to get there.  We once again found a beautiful campsite under a lovely tree, only to be told by the next door neighbout that it is the “nesting tree” for the baboons at night.  She advised us to be in camp when they arrive late afternoon and they might then choose another tree.  This plan worked!  I had a very close encounter with the leader of the pack one afternoon, and had to use a broomstick to show him the way to his tree!  While camping here we made a trip to Kasane and my wife enjoyed doing some shopping and having lunch at Chobe Safari Lodge.  Being on the river front is lovely, but we did find again that the wildlife here was not what we experienced in Moremi.  Lot’s of birdlife though.  We had rain again one afternoon.  The roads were not too bad after the rain.  Saw lot’s of juvenile antelope after the rain (Impala, Kudu etc.)

 

10 - 13 Nov Kubu lodge(Chobe Safari Lodge)

We were booked in and paid for camping at Kubu Lodge, but discovered that they had several incidences of  burglaries in the camp.  We also found the campsite to be a bit neglected and duste, very little shade.  On further investigation we discovered that they have not been putting people up in the camp, but accommodated them in the lodge.  We did not want to do due to the inconvenience of having the trailer with all our stuff in the parking area and the room in the lodge.  We agreed to rather stay in the lodge the night before we leave Kasana and found a campsite at Chobe Safari Lodge instead.  It was lovely having all the luxuries of hot water, clean ablutions, a pool at the lodge, restaurant, even a lovely coffee shop in town (a must!).  However, we missed the quiteness of the bush.  Once again we did a boat trip on the river and enjoyed the bird life photography.  During this time we also paid a day visit to Victoria Falls.  It is very safe to go in your own car and much cheaper than doing it with a tour operator.  We were quite shocked when we had to pay R520 for 4 coffees and 4 toasted bacon & eggs and the Elephant Hills Hotel and decided that next time we will bring a picnic basket along.  However the High Tea (P300 for 4 people) at Victoria Falls Hotel is a must! 

14 Nov – Willows Stop Over Francis Town

 

En-route we and one other couple decided to visit the Nata Bird Sanctuary to see the Flamingo’s (who apparently were there in there thousands).  We left the trailer at the gate.  There were lot’s of water in the pan area and it started raining just when we got to the furthest point.   Within minutes there were water everywhere! We then had a very adventurous afternoon trying to get through “rivers of water”.  Our friends got stuck once and thanks to the “winch” he had fitted on his car, we could rescue him.  Needless to say, we never saw the Falmingo’s!  got to Willows after dark.  What a beautiful place – highly recommended!  We opted to stay in their  beautiful fully equiped rooms.

15-17 Nov -Limpopo River Lodge Campsite

 

This camp is highly recommendable to “chill out” for a few days.  It is situated on the bank of the Limpopo river with South Africa on the opposite side.  There are only 6 campsites and the ablutions are beautiful, hot water, lanterns lit at night.  We had a lovely time here and enjoyed the birdlife.  In terms of other wildlife, we only saw  few antelope and they were quite shy due to shooting across the river on SA side.  We visited the lodge and were so impressed!  It is really a beautiful place and ideal for a family weekend or holiday if you live in Gauteng.  We will be back there!

Road conditions:

 

Tarred roads are in a good condition accept for a 50km stretch between Kasane and Nata.

 

Gravel roads were in good condition.

 

Sand tracks - were ok with heavy, thick sand patches in Moremi and Savuti areas. If you travel from Moremi to Savuti turn left just outside the Ngoma Gate and travel for 7km along this road, then turn right and this road will connect again with the Savuti road that is coming from the gate. By taking this route, you will eliminate a very bad section of thick sand tracks. We managed the sand tracks quite easily with the Jeep, I need to fit a better suspension on the Jeep to raise it a little to avoid having the car bottom touching the ‘middelmannetjie’  as the tracks are quite deep in some places.

 

Water crossings – we did a few water crossings with no problem. First check each crossing out and make sure it is ok to cross, I once got bogged down in a ditch that was to deep to get the trailer through, the nose wheel embedded itself and luckily there was a truck passing that could pull us out.

 

Recoveries – Apart from getting bogged down once, we helped two other vehicles that was bogged down. One sand recovery (Isuzu 4×4) and one water/mud recovery ( Landcruiser)

 

Always check your surrounds when leaving your vehicle to assist with recoveries or when collecting wood or take a photograph. Remember you are in the bush and wild animals are around.

 

What will I take with or fit for my next safari? Long range fuel tanks and a winch.

 

Favourite Camps: Xakanaxa,North Gate, Ihaha & Limpopo River Lodge

 

Favourite Lodge: Chobe Safari Lodge

 

Fuel consumption: Hard to say what the exact figure was, our Jeep’s battery gave trouble and we lost the data on the trip meter. I would guess around 6-7km/Litre should be close to correct.

 

 

GPS: We found that some of the coordinates on the Shell maps did not correspond with our GPS, we will get MAPS for Africa next time, believe it is the software to have!!!

Visist Photography Galleries for pictures.